If you are new to owning an Angora rabbit but keen to see what showing is about, then here is a quick guide to how to enter a rabbit show. For further details contact us or come and talk to us on the National Angora Club stand at a show sometime.
The interbreeding of Coloured Angoras
The surging interest in handspinning that has arisen during the last few years has greatly increased our membership. Unfortunately, a large proportion of these newcomers, welcome as they are, have not the faintest interest in exhibiting and, therefore, do not appreciate how essential it is to preserve the highest standards of the breed, particularly regarding coloureds, to which enthusiasts in former years have devoted almost a lifetime in achieving improvement to the present high quality.
Angora rabbits make excellent pets for spinners. One Angora rabbit can produce as much as 400g of wool per year and as it is spun fine and at high twist, a little Angora goes a long way.
An exhibition Angora rabbit will be excellent for wool, but breeders will often let a rabbit with a minor defect making it unsuitable for exhibition or breeding (for example a white foot in a coloured rabbit) go to a good wool home for a lower price.
Be wary of rescue Angoras if you wish to spin the coat. Many “Angoras” in rescue are not true Angoras, but crossbreeds, Cashmere lops or Lionheads, with coats unsuitable for spinnng.
If you would like to take an Angora from a rescue, take an experienced Angora person with you to help you choose. Remember Angoras do NOT have lop ears. Again contact the National Angora Club and find a reputable local breeder.
Here is a list of the top essential items used by angora rabbit breeders
- Ivomectin
- Oxbow critical Care
- Senokot tablets
- Baby diarrhorea mixture
- Talcum no scented
- Baby wipes
- Virkon – disinfectant to kill all bugs
- Fly papers
- Savlon liquid and cream
- Rear guard– for fly strike (when parts of the body (usually rear end) gets infested with fly eggs and maggots eat the flesh.
- Bathe with salt water and pat dry, apply a cream such as savlon
Firstly, topside and its coat.
If it is a young rabbit or 3 – 4 months it may not be clipped and if it hasn’t it may be said to be in ‘Show Coat’ which does not necessarily mean it is up to show standard, it simply means it has not been clipped. Either way the coat should be nice and thick. If the rabbit is for exhibition it should be well furnished around the face and feet.
Golden
The appeal of the coloured Angora does not rest with the beauty of its appearance, but holds still more fascination for those who make use of its wool. It is often said that only a handspinner can really appreciate coloureds to the full and only when one handles the wool do the material qualities of the rabbit become apparent. A well-made garment in perfectly matched natural coloured Angora stands way and above any dyed counterpart, and assumes that “exclusive” appearance so sought after in fashion circles.
All rabbits require a high fibre diet and Angoras are no exception. It is important to have a regular pattern of feeding. Owners can feed twice daily or once daily but the rabbits appreciate the same routine. A sample routine is hay, water check and a small amount of greens before work on a morning, then hay, dried food, greens and fresh water on an evening.
Only healthy rabbits should be mated. Malocclusion of teeth and congenital eye problems are hereditary and rabbits with these problems should not be bred from. Rabbits should not be mated until full maturity at 8 months old. Most breeders wait until the doe is about nine to ten months, and then only if the doe is receptive.
One of the first difficulties encountered by the beginner who has bred their first litter and reared it to weaning age, is the choice of the best to groom on for exhibition. Almost all beginners choose the one with the most attractive head or the best ear-furnishing. However, there is much more to consider in selecting a potential winner.